We moved to Adelaide from Cairns a couple years ago in autumn. It’s a beautiful time of the year. The red and orange leaves painted on the blue sky, the fresh green grass smell with a nice breeze, and just perfect weather. I couldn’t ask more for anything. Then next few months after settling, Greg asked if I wanted to go for a getaway. And the answer is YES. Here you go, our first little trip in South Australia.
It was the introduction to Fleurieu Peninsula for me. This region is in the south of Adelaide and is known for its spectacular beaches, wonderful views of the rugged coastline, historic township, renowned wetlands, and vineyards.
We planned to stay two nights in Goolwa and explore the neighbourhood. I was new to the region, so I followed my local guide, Greg, and enjoyed the trip. As much as I know, autumn between March to May is the best time to visit this region because the weather is perfect for outdoor activities. However, it was also beautiful when we went there in October, the end of Spring.
Start our trip from Adelaide
We left home from the city at 9 in the morning. You can use the Southern Expressway via a gateway to Fleurieu Peninsula from Adelaide. But we went on Princess Highway because Greg wanted to revisit the Monarto Safari Park. Although I didn’t fancy an animal watching experience and haven’t gone to any, I tried to be open-minded and see what’s it like.
It was a bit cloudy day and driving on the highway made me nervous. Sometimes you think you are doing the right speed, but others make you feel too slow. Anyway, around 50 minutes later, we arrived at the park.
Monarto Safari Park
This Safari is home to more than 500 animals and 50 species in an open area of around 1,500 hectares. This is the largest zoo in the world! The ticket for an adult is AUD40.50, and for a child (4-15 years) is AUD21.5.
We started at the visitor centre. They have a café where we grabbed a cup of coffee and warmed up with a little loop around, seeing hyperactive meerkats running around their field. Then we caught a bus that took us around with a tour guide explaining things on board. We saw many creatures along the drive, for example, rhinoceros, blackbucks, oryx, zebras, emus and giraffes. But the most exciting thing for me was hyenas and African-painted dogs, which is a rare opportunity to see in Australia.
When we were there, they were building the new visitor centre, which was finished when I wrote this blog. You can access the new entrance on Monarto road. Local architectural firms designed the building to celebrate and connect the culture of Indigenous land and African fauna. I am wondering what the inside look like. You should visit and let me know how cool it is. Oh…and the good news is they will finish the Glamping accommodation soon in 2023, and an open-sided vehicle like the wild African tour is also coming on the menu soon. So, if you fancy a wildlife experience, check their website and grab the ticket!
You can also make a day trip by direct bus from the Central Bus Station in CBD to Monarto Safari Park. You can check more information and book a ticket here.
Strathalbyn
I was a bit hungry after finishing the Safari tour, not because I saw many animals. After we left the Safari, we decided to stop at the cutest town along the way to Goolwa.
Strathalbyn was built on both sides of the Angas River, running through the stunning Soldiers Memorial Gardens. We walked around the gardens and lay on the soft green grass on the riverside. It was a great time of the day, and the weather made it even more lovely to be lazy and let my mind flow along with the river sound. That moment made us too relaxed, and we even forgot to eat.
But I wish we had more time to explore a beautiful old church, gifts and craft shops, historical buildings, museums, and the local wineries near town.
Goolwa
It was almost dark when we got to our Airbnb in Goolwa. We met the hosts and got the key from them before dropping off our stuff and going to Goolwa beach for the sunset. I was impressed to see windblown sand for the first time, as it was very windy at the beach.
The following day, I woke up in the comfy bed and thought it was our first overnight trip in South Australia. It made me realise we actually moved and lived here. I spent two years in Cairns, but sometimes I still wake up in Adelaide and feel strange. I can’t imagine how Greg would feel to start it over again here after years in Cairns.
Anyway, we had a quick breakfast and then went to the visitor centre to get information on what to do around this area. Goolwa was a very busy riverport back in the 1850s and you can tell by so many wonderful old sandstone buildings around town. It’s also a gateway to Coorong National Park and the merging point where the Murray River reached the Southern Ocean. Therefore, there are exciting things to do, like river cruising on the lower Murray River, visiting Railway Superintendent’s House National Trust Museum or Goolwa Artworx Gallery, and grabbing an award-winning Whisky at the Fleurieu Distillery and Steam Exchange Brewery on the wharf.
It’s a pity we didn’t plan ahead and ran out of time. So, we decided to take it easy and go exploring places instead. Yeah, we headed to Victor Harbor.
Victor Harbor
It’s about 20 minutes by car from Goolwa or an hour from Adelaide you will be in the heart and biggest town of Fleurieu Peninsula. And I would say that this glorious oceanfront town would open your eyes to the beautiful wildlife landscape and its long history.
If you come from Port Elliot, another excellent spot to stop by, you will take Hindmarsh Road to Victor Harbor. The drive downhill is fantastic as you can hear the ocean waves dancing from the left and see the enormously stunning mansion of Mount Bracken pop up at the top of the hill on the right side.
On the road, Greg told me that Victor Harbor has hosted thousands of South Australian school leavers for the annual Schoolies Festival. It surprised me as another story is that this town is also known as a beautiful destination for retirement.
Don’t worry if you are not a high schooler or retiree. You can still have a good time in Victor Harbor. The first thing you shouldn’t miss is riding a unique horsedrawn tram to Granite Island. Crossing the bridge, you could see crystal clear water and feel like being part of a royal or wealthy family on the ride. On Granite Island, you can spend time hiking along the cliffs and keep an eye on dolphins or sea lions, especially if you visit between May and October. Or you can book Big Duck Boat Tours to see adorable ocean creatures along the coastline and islands.
If you have time and like to slow it down a bit, The Cockle Train is a perfect program. Offering you the most picturesque coastal scenery of Flurien Peninsula from Goolwa to Victor Harbor. You can check the timetable and fares here.
There were so many activities when I checked on Victor Harbor’s website that I didn’t know existed. For example, the beachside markets every 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month, the Heritage Trail along the coastline from Kent Reserve to Kings Beach Road, the Chop It Axe Throwing Alley and games cafe, and whale watching (good season runs from late May to October).
Browsing their website would help you plan the trip better. Please feel free to check and add any activity you like on the itinerary, or you can just follow us to the next stop.
The Bluff or Rosetta Head
Just a few minutes from Victor Harbor at Encounter Bay. You can hike up to the top of the Bluff. At 97 meters above sea level, you will see 360-degree views from Victor Harbor to Granite Island to the southwest coastline. It’s such a spectacular landscape.
Newland Head Conservation Park
After a little walk around the Rosetta Head or The Bluff, we wanted to do more walking to burn more calories! It took us about 20 minutes by car to get to this hidden gem. Off from Waitpinga Road on Dennis Road, when seeing the entry to Waitpong Beach with the Newland Head Conservation Park sign, turn left to the campground instead. You can also park at the beach and start walking from there if you want.
This Park is a great place for bird watching, surfing and bushwalking. Unfortunately, you can’t really swim due to strong rips and dogs are not permitted in this park. However, you can still enjoy camping or hiking. We did the Coastal Cliffs Look Hike, which is 8.6 km and 4 hours return. It’s a bit steep at the beginning. But when you get to the cliffs and walk along the coastline, you will be mind-blowing. I never thought we could find this scenery in South Australia. A hundred per cent recommended.
After a long day, we returned to Goolwa and had a big dinner at a local pub before calling the night.
Accommodation
We stayed at Airbnb Gillies R & R. It’s a cute room attached to the main house but got private access and a lovely bed.
But we talked about next time we would love to stay at Boathouse – Birks Harbour. It will be so nice to wake up with waterfront views and a reflection of the sunset on Murray River.
There are also caravan parks in each town as well. Check for a vacancy on Discovery Parks in Goolwa, Victor Harbor Beachfront Holiday Park, and Breeze Holiday Park in Port Elliot.
What to eat?
We haven’t had a chance to taste much food. But having breakfast at Motherduck was fantastic. Lovely coffee, fresh ingredients and a wide range of food for you to try.
On our first night, it was surprisingly busy at THAi DAYS Restaurant. The menu looked interesting but was too busy, and we couldn’t get in. They have pretty good reviews on Google too. If you have a chance to try it, please let me know how delicious it is.
The Donut café at Victor Harbor on the weekend is a must not miss, especially on a cold day. Having hot fresh donuts with delicious coffee is the most satisfying you could imagine.
And it was all we did on a lovely getaway in Fleurieu Peninsula. I think it was fantastic even though we didn’t have much time to explore everything but we saw a lot. I would love love love (Greg’s voice) to revisit this region for sure.