Let’s hit the road in South Australia! If you’ve got a week to spare and are keen to explore breathtaking coastlines, sandy beaches, and indulge in scrumptious seafood, this is the perfect trip for you.
During our New Year holiday, we had a week to make unforgettable memories, so we set our sights on the Seafood Frontier: the stunning Eyre Peninsula.
Day 1 – Drive through Barossa to Port Pirie
Starting our journey in Adelaide, we drove through the sun-drenched Barossa region, surrounded by vast expanses of brown grass. We stopped for lunch at Lou’s Place and were pleasantly surprised by the delicious food. Chatting with the staff, we learned that some of their chefs travelled from the south coast up here to serve these delicious dishes with their culinary passion.
Back on the road, the vast, remote landscape captivated us, reminiscent of my drives back home from Bangkok during the Thai New Year.
As we continued, the Flinders Ranges began to appear like a picturesque backdrop, signalling our approach to our overnight stop. We reached Port Pirie, where we’d celebrate the New Year with Greg’s sister. Though we arrived late in the afternoon, we caught glimpses of inviting spots along the main road and beach area. Despite a large factory in the middle of town, the atmosphere was charming.
Admittedly, our planning wasn’t perfect, as we hadn’t booked accommodations for the entire week. This last-minute trip came together right after Christmas, so we scrambled to find a place to stay in the Eyre Peninsula.
And just when the dinner was about to start, I got an unexpected phone call from a coworker about a colleague I worked with a few days ago falling ill. My mind raced, worrying about the possibility of COVID. I was so worried anyway because Greg’s sister is a nurse, and if she got Covid, then she couldn’t go to work.
I didn’t fully enjoy the celebrations. My head just kept thinking the worse. Finally, Greg claimed me down and said that we would be all right. Though I didn’t think we will, I tried to relax and plan that we should get tested soon.
The first morning of the new year brought a delicious aroma of bacon and eggs, as Greg and his sister whipped up a big breakfast for everyone. Another cousin joined us, and for a moment, I forgot about my COVID worries, simply enjoying the warmth and closeness of Greg’s family. Growing up in a family that was distant from relatives, I cherished this special bond and the delightful start to the year.
Day 2 – visit Flinders Ranges
After wishing Greg’s cousin a Happy New Year and bidding farewell, we set off westward towards Mount Remarkable National Park. Greg was eager to hike through Alligator Gorge, and even with temperatures nearing 40 degrees, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity.
The drive along the Ranges was breathtaking, particularly as we turned onto Horrocks Pass Road towards Wilmington. Surrounded by towering mountains, I felt a thrilling chill as we navigated the winding roads to the Gorge.
We arrived at the Blue Gum Flat Picnic Area an hour and a half later. The cloudy skies and sparse crowds set the scene for a peaceful hike. Initially, the trail was easy-going, but it gradually turned rocky. I had seen pictures of the Gorge in spring, brimming with flowing water, but during our visit, it was dry, humid, and swarming with flies. Despite the conditions, the Narrows and the Terraces showcased incredible natural formations, making the journey worthwhile. The big rock platform within the gorge made me feel wonderfully small in comparison.
As we reached the halfway point, steep steps led up to the Alligator Gorge Car Park. The heat and humidity took their toll, making me dizzy and weak. Fortunately, it happened just as we reached the top.
The Flinders Ranges offer many activities, and I can’t wait to return and uncover more hidden gems in this beautiful region. A weekend visit during spring or even winter sounds perfect!
Just as I began to forget about the lingering COVID concerns, a text message from my friend brought reality crashing back. She had tested positive for the virus. I told Greg, who immediately called his sister as we continued to our next destination.
Day 2 – Whyalla
Fortunately, we found a night’s accommodation in Whyalla at the Foreshore Motor Inn. Although not the best, it was our only option before staying in Cummins for the next two nights.
Our journey from Alligator Gorge took us through Port Augusta, where the empty streets caught my attention. In Thailand, it’s rare to see a town so quiet during holidays or festivals. However, Bangkok does become quieter during Thai New Year, as people return to their countryside homes. I wondered if a similar phenomenon occurs in Australia, with locals leaving town to visit their families or take vacations elsewhere.
It took us two hours drive from Alligator Gorge in Wilmington to arrive in Whyalla. After checking in and unpacking, we headed to Hummock Hill Lookout to enjoy a beautiful sunset over the unique circular jetty.
Whyalla has a rich history, as Aboriginals inhabited it for 40,000 years before Europeans arrived and discovered iron ore at Iron Knob in the mid-1800s. Originally named Hummock Hill, it was officially proclaimed as Whyalla in 1914.
Our time in Whyalla was limited due to the public holiday, with many attractions closed. However, during regular times, you can enjoy a steelworks tour at the historic Australian iron and steelmaking factory, walk trails around the city or wetlands, and visit the Whyalla Maritime Museum to learn about the first ship built in the town in 1941. Additionally, fishing and diving excursions offer opportunities to see cuttlefish and dolphins up close.
Day 3 – along the beach at Port Nail
I woke up feeling a bit uneasy, unsure if it was the bed or if I was coming down with something. I checked on Greg, who seemed fine, but I couldn’t shake the worry that I might have caught COVID from my friend. To put our minds at ease, we decided to get a PCR test at Whyalla Hospital. Testing could mean waiting in line for hours in the city, but in Whyalla, it only took us 15 minutes!
While waiting for the test results, we made our way to Cummins, where we would stay for a couple of nights. Our choice of accommodation was based on limited availability in the area, and we wanted to avoid a long drive straight to Port Lincoln.
Along the way, we stopped in a few towns like Cowell, Port Gibbon, and Arno Bay to explore and stretch our legs. Most of the towns were quiet, and we couldn’t figure out why they were so empty during this time of year. Eventually, we arrived at our last stop, Port Neill, before heading inland.
When we reached the beach in Port Neill, I knew we had to spend the afternoon there. It was a haven on our trip so far – a stunning, lengthy stretch of white sand and crystal-clear water. So we found a park near the caravan park, headed straight to the beach, and jumped in. The water was incredibly refreshing, and for the first time in months, I saw Greg truly relaxed. It was a lovely reminder that we were on vacation, and Greg deserved this break after all the recent changes in his life.
The refreshing water at Port Neill left us feeling energised and rejuvenated. We even joked that there must be something magical about it, as the cold water felt so refreshing compared to swimming in the warm waters of Cairns or Thailand.
If I ever find myself in the area again, I’ll definitely book accommodation in Port Neill and spend a few days enjoying the aquamarine water and having a barbecue in the park.
Day 4 – Stay in Cummins
We took a brief stroll along Tumby Bay’s beach before heading to Bratten Way, and within just half an hour, we arrived at Cummins Hotel. Greg playfully nicknamed this little town with a cheeky joke – “comminsideme.” I apologise for my gay husband’s lighthearted humour! However, this remote town genuinely piqued our interest.
Cummins is nestled in the heart of the southern Eyre Peninsula, boasting delicious flavours for your favourite dishes. If you’re seeking a tranquil spot to explore the region’s agricultural hub, this is the place for you. The entire area transforms into stunning yellow canola fields from August to October, offering fantastic photo opportunities.
Our room was clean, comfortable, and seemingly new. Surprisingly, even in this small town, the hotel was fully booked! So we decided to stretch our legs by following the red trail walking track.
Starting from Cummins Takeaway & Deli, the only store open across the road from our hotel, we walked along the main road that runs alongside the railway in the town centre. Although there were a few stores and cafes on both sides, unfortunately, most were closed during this time of year. As we turned onto Firth Avenue, the sun’s rays filtered through the tree branches, casting a golden glow on the grassland.
Greg mentioned that this place reminded him of Padthaway, where the flat countryside showcased the seemingly endless farmland, illuminated by the stunning sunset.
Day 5 – Cummins Monument and Greenly Beach
We enjoyed a restful night’s sleep and woke up feeling refreshed. Taking a morning stroll around the peaceful town, we breathed in the fresh air, feeling rejuvenated and momentarily distracted from our Covid test results. We grabbed a bite to eat from the only takeaway in town before setting off to the west coast.
Driving west on Bratten Way, we passed intriguing salt lakes before turning right onto Flinders Highway and heading north to Leo Cummings Monument Lookout. The lookout is dedicated to Leo Cummings, who tragically drowned when his boat was wrecked on the rocks at the base of the cliffs.
From the car park, a short uphill walk led us to the awe-inspiring rugged cliffs. The dramatic coastline stretched before us, while Lake Hamilton rested in the distance, a truly mind blowing sight.
Next, we ventured south for about 50 minutes to Greenly Beach. An 11 km drive on the unsealed Coles Point Road brought us to a car park overlooking the gorgeous beach, framed by a massive hill. Again, wecouldn’t resist jumping in the crystal-clear water. It was pure bliss.
We also returned a day later for a hike up Greenly Hill, hoping it would help us combat Covid if we had caught it. Access the Mouth Greenly Summit via Greenly Beach Road, take the first right to the car park, and follow the track up the hill. This 4 km round-trip hike takes around 2-3 hours and is considered moderately challenging.
The hike offers stunning rock formations and 360-degree views of the surrounding area. At some points, it may feel a little unnerving as if you’re walking on the spine of the mountain. However, keep following the track, aiming for the rock cairn marking the summit.
As we began our ascent, my mind raced with thoughts. What if I caught Covid and passed it on to Greg? How sick would we get? Did I expose others to the virus? Should we be in quarantine?
However, halfway up the hike, the wind caressed my face as I stood on a rock at the cliff’s edge, taking in the breathtaking coastline and beaches. The sound of the waves and the sight of golden fields and serene lakes behind me melted my worries away, bringing me back to the present moment.
That unforgettable experience on Greenly Hill remains one of our trip’s highlights, and I wholeheartedly recommend discovering its magic for yourself!
Day 6 – Coffin Bay
We received two pieces of fantastic news before leaving the quaint town of Cummins: our Covid test results came back negative, and Greg managed to secure us a room at Coffin Bay Holiday & Caravan Park.
Coffin Bay is a seafood haven nestled amidst picturesque National Parks and stunning bay views. Greg told me the town is renowned for its fresh and massive oysters. As soon as we arrived, I spotted an oyster farm, instantly craving a dozen of them.
This charming town offers more than just oyster farm tours where you don a wetsuit, dive into the sea, and enjoy fresh oysters served on the spot. You can also explore the breathtaking Coffin Bay National Park with its hidden sand dunes and inspiring cliffs, find a prime spot for fishing in town, stroll along the Oyster Walk by the foreshore up to the lookout, and indulge in delicious seafood.
We visited Golden Island Lookout in the National Park during our stay in Coffin Bay. Just a 20-minute drive from town on a paved road, this spot boasts a gorgeous view with access to a pristine white sand beach and crystal-clear water. Despite the 20-degree weather, we couldn’t resist a quick swim, which was incredibly refreshing.
Naturally, we couldn’t leave without tasting Coffin Bay’s famous oysters. The restaurants were bustling with tourists, but we lucked out and snagged a table at Oyster HQ. The oysters there were simply divine. In fact, every place we visited in Coffin Bay, like Coffin Bay Hotel, Beachcomber, and the little café next to IGA, served excellent meals, particularly seafood dishes. It’s truly a paradise for foodies and seafood enthusiasts.
Day 7 – Port Lincoln
After Coffin Bay, I felt like our holiday was coming to an end, but we still had one night in Port Lincoln. It had only been a week, but I was exhausted. Maybe the hike at Greenly Hill had worn me down or perhaps Covid was beginning to affect me.
As I kept worrying and talking about Covid, Greg started feeling tired and sick too. It was unusual since he’s usually full of energy, always dragging me along on adventures. Seeing him tired made me feel guilty.
Port Lincoln boasts many exciting activities, from shark cage diving, swimming with sea lions, and scuba diving, to stunning lookouts in Lincoln National Park and the town’s Heritage walking trails. But our weakened bodies limited our options.
We left Coffin Bay and visited Pelamis Point in Lincoln National Park for a brief walk before heading back to town for a scrumptious lunch at Del Giorno’s Café. Afterwards, we checked into Shaen Street Motel for a quick nap.
Next, we stopped by the Capitals Seafood store to pick up fresh seafood for dinner. They had a wide selection of fresh, juicy, and delicious options. We also spent some time exploring the jetty and shops along Tasman Terrace. Port Lincoln has many lovely stores, museums, and galleries to visit. It’s a shame we feltdrained on our last day; otherwise, I might have extended our stay to experience everything.
On our final day, after breakfast in town, we visited the hospital for another Covid test. We wanted to make sure we were okay before meeting up with friends visiting from Cairns. Then, we headed to Lucky Bay to catch the ferry to Wallaroo in Yorke Peninsula. The ferry is a convenient shortcut that saves driving time, although it takes about three hours and costs $190 per vehicle (including the driver) and $42 for adults.
As our unforgettable journey through the Eyre Peninsula came to an end, I reflected on the incredible experiences we’d shared. From the tranquil charm of small towns to the breathtaking beauty of the coastlines and exhilarating hikes, we’d created memories that would last a lifetime. While the spectre of Covid loomed throughout our adventure, it ultimately brought us closer together and made us appreciate the present moment even more. This trip truly demonstrated that sometimes the most remarkable discoveries and connections happen off the beaten path, in the hidden gems waiting to be explored.
Well, at the end of the trip I kind of forgot about Covid. Because of the intense seasickness, I got on the ferry, which was far worse than any worries about the virus. Especially when it lasts for a week after.
