Remarkable Getaway in Riverland

/ By

If Covid were a gaslighter partner that mentally swayed your life, flooding could have been a threatening one that would take almost everything from you. Riverland was affected by flooding at the end of 2022. It was a series of floodings around the area before reaching the peak with a large amount of water in the river system that left over 3,000 homes and properties disconnected from power and supplies. 

As I navigated my personal struggles in the city, news of the floods aired on TV. The words from a Hollywood Stargirl came to my head, and I couldn’t help but relate. 

“Can’t always see way down the road, too busy looking at the trees out my window
And we’ll make it all up as we go
And you crashed the party right on time, just as the music died and on came the lights
So help me up, bring me back to life

Maybe, I don’t know, oh-oh-oh
We all just figure it out as we go
‘Cause no one really knows, oh-oh-oh
We all just figure it out as we go”

– Figure it out (Hollywood Stargirl Soundtrack) –

In a way, I felt as if I was wading through my own emotional flood, grappling with self-doubt and the weight of my own expectations. But who knows what the future holds? Perhaps we should embrace life’s ebbs and flows, as they’re only fleeting.

I endeavoured to explore my potential and discovered that I was capable of more than I realised, I just wasn’t in the right place. This realisation, though empowering, took a toll on me emotionally. I knew it wasn’t sustainable in the long run, so something had to change. 

That’s when the South Australia Government launched a voucher initiative to encourage visits to Riverland, and I eagerly grabbed the opportunity. It was a chance not only to support the community but also to embark on a journey of reconnecting to myself amidst the aftermath of the disaster.

Driving from Adelaide

I can hardly recall the last time I partied so hard that I spent the following morning feeling nauseous. But that was precisely how I found myself after an amazing night with Greg and his friend, who had flown in from Cairns. We had an absolute blast, eventually winding up at Marry Poppins, dancing with the abandonment of carefree teenagers. Unfortunately, the next morning was a bit rough.

Despite my condition, Greg took care of packing, and after several trips to the bathroom around noon, we were finally ready to hit the road. I felt awful and had a terrible headache, but I was determined to make the most of the trip. We drove through Barossa and headed north on Sturt Highway, stopping for a coffee break at the quaint Barossa Tea Room and Wine Bar in Truro. Greg mentioned that the barista was singing while making his flat white, which he found charming.

What’s left in Blanchetown

About thirty minutes later, we arrived in Blanchetown. We ventured to an area near the river’s edge on Page Drive, where the striking red cliffs served as a backdrop. The flood had left its mark on the houses, with muddy stains revealing the water’s reach, and locals were busy cleaning up the mess.

I tried to picture the idyllic scene before the disaster struck: lounging on a balcony with a warm cup of tea, listening to birdsong as the sun cast a gentle glow over the flowing water and a cool breeze rustled the leaves. It must have been heavenly. But now, all that remained were the traces of devastation waiting to be mended. I couldn’t help but wonder why people chose to stay in such a vulnerable location, knowing that history might repeat itself.

Stay like queens at the Murray River Queen – a boat on the river

As we arrived in Renmark, I was in a drowsy state, half awake and half asleep. The town appeared larger than the others we had passed through on our journey. Its main street was divided by a sprawling island garden, with shops and stores lining both sides.

And the queen was waiting for us just behind the BankSA building on the river. The Murray River Queen is a unique riverfront accommodation boast with a rich history we stayed for two nights. This beautiful vessel was built in 1972 by a Dutch immigrant, Keith Veenstra, in Goolwa for luxury tourist purposes before she retired in 1993 and spent time in different places around the region. Recently, got renovated by the new owner, Loxton lady, who did a very good job in transforming it into a remarkable accommodation.

We stayed in the Riverview Suite on the top deck, offering a fantastic river view. The room was spacious, clean and featured doors leading to both the riverbank and riverside. The amenities, including a jacuzzi bathtub, were perfect for our getaway.

After unpacking, I started to feel hungry because haven’t been eating anything all day. Surprisingly, quite a few restaurants were around for such a small town, and they were busy too. We chose Jimmy’s Thai and had a lovely dinner there. The food was delicious and pretty authentically flavoured Thai. 

Morning walk along the river – Matulick Riverfront Trail

A good sleep did me so much favour. It’s the best pill to restart fresh over again with the melodies of birdsong. And it’s just a few steps from the bed to the balcony to take in the serene river scene. The river flowed calmly while all the birds started stretching out from their nest. Across the river was Causeway Island, and the sunrise started painting the sky, slowly turning it into orange. It was such an amazing moment.

Then we strolled along the Matulick Riverfront Trail, which run along Murray River for about 45 minutes. It’s an easy yet beautiful walk to let us enjoy Renmark even more. And when our belly was about to scream, the Renmark Club opened to save us. Having a cup of coffee and a big breakfast in the warm sunlight and the sounds of life around.

We tried to book an hour’s cruise on the PS Industry, but it was booked out. This precious steamer was built in 1911 to remove snags from the river and clear passage for other steamers. You will enjoy the journey along the Murray River with history on board. The ticket is $30 for adults. However, they don’t operate every day. The upcoming cruises are Sunday 7 May, 11 June, 9 July and 6 August. So if you don’t want to miss it, it’s a good idea to book online or check the available seats on-site when you are in town at the visitor centre in Renmark. 

Because we missed it, we booked the sunset kayak with Canoe The Riverland at 5 pm instead. While we were waiting for that adventure, we went to visit the popular lookout that the lady from the visitor centre recommended. 

Heading Cliffs Lookout

About 15 minutes from Renmark, we drove to Paringa and continued on Murtho Road before turning onto Heading Road. This incredible spot offered panoramic views of the Murray River, framed by stunning red cliffs and infused with the pleasant aroma of nearby orange farms. There is a short walking track along the cliff for those who want to explore, as well as a campground on the river beach accessible via an unsealed road. 

Woolshed Brewery

After soaking in beautiful views with a nice breeze, it’s time to soak up some refreshing cool beer. We headed to Wilkadene or Woolshed Brewery on Google Maps. From Heading Cliffs Lookout, drive further north on Murtho Road for about 10 minutes to arrive at this hidden brewery. The rustic look of the old shed nestled under the shade of large gum trees made us feel so relaxed. We grabbed our drinks and sat on the balcony, watching people boating along the river. It’s the perfect place to spend an afternoon. 

Olivewood Historic Homestead and Museum

With time to spare before our kayak trip and didn’t want to get too drunk before the kayak. Greg suggested we should load up some information from the Olivewood Historic Homestead and Museum.

This museum is located at the entrance to Renmark from Adelaide. The homestead was originally built for the Chaffey brothers, who played a significant role in this town’s history. The $7 adult entrance fee was well worth it, and the friendly and informative receptionist made our visit enjoyable. While Greg gathered information from her, I admired the antiques on display.

Greg shared the fascinating story of the Chaffey brothers, who came from Canada and attempted to set up an irrigation scheme in Mildura, New South Wales. After being rejected there. They came to Renmark in South Australia, where the government welcomed their irrigation project. The brothers pumped water from the Murray River to establish irrigation and farming in the area. Unfortunately, a severe drought in 1911 caused them to go bankrupt.

They left their house behind, which is now the Olivewood Historic Homestead and Museum. The home is preserved with its original furnishings, and the museum also showcases farming equipment and exhibits about the area’s Aboriginal people. 

I enjoyed listening to Greg’s retelling of the story, as he had a way of making even mundane details sound fascinating and engaging.

Sunset Kayak

Time to get active! We joined the Sunset Kayak Tour with Canoe The Riverland, priced at $70 for adults and $30 for children. Usually, about eight people would join the trip, but it was just me, Greg, and Jim, our tour guide. Group discounts may be available if you book together.

From Paringa, we took the Murtho Road, off to a dirt track downhill towards the Murray River, where we met Jim at his property. He is a nice Aussie guy, and he showed us a bit about how to kayak because neither Greg nor I had done it much previously. After a bit of an education, we tightened up our life jackets and climbed into the kayak. Honestly, it’s a bit scary, first of all when you head out in this little boat on a big river. It’s pretty wide and overwhelming. But he had given us the skills to do it, and we kayaked quite comfortably.

Jim shared his extensive knowledge about the local area, river, environment, and wildlife as we paddled along. He explained that the bark floating in the river had come from the Darling River in New South Wales. He also mentioned a website where you can track the Murray River’s water movement, which might be interesting to check out.

Greg was fascinated by the diverse birdlife, and Jim shared how recent flooding had affected the types of birds in the area. He also talked about European cod, an introduced species of fish, and the reasons behind the decline of the native Murray cod.

“The most amazing thing for me was the birdlife. There’s so much of it. Jim knows all about the birds that live there, and he also explained that there are several species of birds normally there, but they came after the recent flooding a couple of months ago In December. 

He also explained that the fish that you see jumping out of the water are called European carp, and they are an introduced species. The reason why the Murray cod is almost gone now. A big part of that happened when the paddle steamers went up and down the Murray River. They remove snags like dead trees and branches in the river, but that’s where the Murray cod bred and had their babies. So they were fished out.

However, Jim also said that the Murray cod are having a bit of revival up the river, back in New South Wales and Victoria. That’s good to hear. Maybe one day, South Australia will do the same. He also said that the money for Victoria, particularly to revive the cod, is generated by fishermen’s taxes.

So we fled along for a long and then the sunset. He gave us little biscuits and a bottle of water, which was great. Oh, and he talked about many birds around too. 

My favourite is Nankeen Night-Heron, and I have loved them for years. They haven’t been in the area for long since the flooding. I actually saw one many years ago on the Daintree River. They’re quite a beautiful bird, but we didn’t see them up close. And the Spoonbills are fascinating because they are so big, and they jump up in the trees and then sit there. 

It was one called a Black-tailed Native-hen that he said also came from another area. It’s a big tribe of them, about 12, running around on the land. They don’t actually swim in the water. So that was interesting to learn. 

Oh, and we saw where emus regularly cross the Murray River. We didn’t see the emus doing it, but Jim’s website has some footage of a dozen emus swimming across the river, which is quite fascinating. He showed us a big clearing where they all come through one area. It’s like a path for emus.”

Our sunset kayak adventure was an unforgettable experience, learning about local nature in the light of sunsetting. Canoe the Riverland also offers lovely accommodation options, including a cottage and retired paddle steamer to embrace this romantic scenery with your loved one.

Before the day ended, we returned to Heading Cliffs Lookout to catch a breathtaking sunset on the river. Then we wrapped up our day with a delicious dinner at the Renmark Hotel. 

It has been a full-on day, yet memorable moments for us. It’s perfect weather and beautiful scenery to enjoy and learn about the history behind it. At night, above, the sky was full of stars, and we even saw the Milky Way. This trip can’t get good enough. After soaking in the jacuzzi, we enjoyed another good night’s sleep, grateful for the incredible experiences this trip had brought us.

Wilabalangaloo Reserve

We packed up and began our leisurely journey home on our last morning, stopping by towns like Monash, Berri, and Waikerie. Finally, we stumbled upon the picturesque Wilabalangaloo Reserve, situated north of Berri on the Old Sturt Highway. The reserve’s Aboriginal name translates to “place of red, yellow, and brown stones,” which aptly describes the landscape as you wander through its trails. 

As you approach the riverbank, you’ll find yourself surrounded by majestic sandstone cliffs, lush native plants, and abundant birdlife. Entry to this stunning reserve is by donation, which goes towards maintaining its natural beauty.

I remember waking up to the tranquil sounds of nature and the gentle warmth of the sun. Thinking about the time we spent around Riverland, and realised the magic of waking up in such a serene place every day. No wonder people cherish living here, despite the potential for recurring floods. Many have been here for generations, weathering the floods and rebuilding after disasters.

Our lives, too, are filled with highs and lows. Sometimes we soar so high that the eventual fall feels devastating. But nothing lasts forever – neither joy nor sorrow. The challenges we face, like floods, can drain and destroy parts of our world, but they also teach us valuable lessons and help us grow. Mistakes and failures are merely stepping stones on the path to success, and when we look back, we appreciate each one.

So, keep moving forward, regardless of the obstacles you face. Remember, the darkest moments are always followed by the light of a new day, just minutes away.

Itinerary Guide

Things to do

Where to stay

Where to eat/drink

  • Jimmy’s Thai
  • Renmark Club
  • Renmark Hotel
  • Woolshed Brewery
  • 23rd Street Distillery
  • Angove Family Winemakers
  • Rustons Distillery
  • Riverland Wine Centre